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Old 01-09-2010   #1
archaeic_bloke
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Default about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!

hey, as usuall.... i have some random questions about pulling the RB26 motor from the GTR.

#1 when pulling the motor, do you have to remove the mud.splash gaugrd liners... they're basically the black plastic inner front fender liners...gotta remove those?

#2 i know you have to unbolt the front axels... but do you have to remove them completely? or just unbolt them?

#3 to unbolt the front axles is it easiest to take off the wheels, steering knuckles, tension rods and tables? or can it be done without taking all that stuff off?

#4 you don't need to bleed/drain the power steering system right? just unbolt the PS pump from the block... correct?

#5 same story for AC pump as PS pump.. right?

#6 when using an engine crane (2 tonne capacity) what on earth do are you supposed to use to connect that massive hook and chain from the crane to the block? ive seen people use seat belts, other chains.. but whats the Reccomended safest way?

#7 how many tranny bell housing bolts are there? (lol)

#8 the plan is to leave the tranny in place, so do i drop the front shaft from the engine side? and whats the best way to drop it? undo the circlips, and bolts that go through the U-joints?

#9 do i need to bleed the clutch system or can i just carefully unbolt the slave from the fork?

#10 i heard there was something special you need to do to release the fork and its done by moving the rubber boot from the fork and reaching inside and un-doing something in there.. whats the deal with this?


i think thats it for now, im sure there'll be more question as time goes on but id appreciate input on this..

thanks very much!
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Old 01-09-2010   #2
Zacho
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Default Re: about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!

I'll answer #9 and #10 for you.

#9, I would release pressure from the clutch system and then remove the slave. My brother didn't do this on his car and when he pulled the slave off the cylinder came out of the housing, and made a big mess. Re-bleed once the engine is in. If your damper loop is gone it will be easy.

#10, If you have a late model R32 and it is a pull type clutch then I would imagine so. If it is an earlier model you can just slide the transmission off as the fork and release bearing/sleeve will just sit on the input shaft as it comes off.
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Old 01-09-2010   #3
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Default Re: about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!

1: no

2: on passenger side, simply remove the 6 bolts connecting cv shaft to flange(that comes out if oil pan). On drivers side, you need to take the cv shaft out as it is plugged directly into the diff.


3: remove drivers side wheel , center axle nut, outter tie rod, lower ball joint. Tap the shaft out if the hub, then use something knock the shaft out of the diff.


4. Do not drain power steering. Remove the pump from the block, set it aside with hoses still attached. Repeat with air conditioning.

5. See above


6. Use some strong straps. Try to avoid chains. Put a strap around intake manifold and exhaust manifold and attach to the hook.

7. 8 I think? Only hard ones to get at are the top two, and starter bolts.

8. It's so much easier to pull tranny too. Good luck aligning it back in with the tranny in position. Save the hassle, leave all the tranny bolts in, starter in, front driveshaft in, pull it whole.

9. Just take off the two 14mm bolts holding the slave to the tranny. Zip rid the Slave out if the way.

10. Post above mind explains it well. If it's early model, the transmission slides off no prob. If IRS a 93 of the right month, you need to stick a screw driver in there to release the release bearing from clutch fingers.
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Old 01-09-2010   #4
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Default Re: about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!

I just put it in the quote, was easier:

Quote:
Originally Posted by archaeic_bloke View Post
hey, as usuall.... i have some random questions about pulling the RB26 motor from the GTR.

#1 when pulling the motor, do you have to remove the mud.splash gaugrd liners... they're basically the black plastic inner front fender liners...gotta remove those?


nope. Don't even really go near 'em.



#2 i know you have to unbolt the front axels... but do you have to remove them completely? or just unbolt them?


Nope.

You have to unbolt the passenger side one from the engine, and you have to pop out the passenger side one and undo the ball joint so you pull it out/seperate it from the front diff. Once that's done and it's out, you can pop the ball joint back together until you're ready to re-install the engine.


#3 to unbolt the front axles is it easiest to take off the wheels, steering knuckles, tension rods and tables? or can it be done without taking all that stuff off?


Passenger side - just unbolt from the engine. You don't have to undo anything else.

Driver's side: see answer to #2 above.


#4 you don't need to bleed/drain the power steering system right? just unbolt the PS pump from the block... correct?



In practice it's probably easier to pull the pump with the engine. Just undo the lines. Bleeding the PS system is easy - just add fluid and work the wheel back and forth until it works.




#5 same story for AC pump as PS pump.. right?

Yep. See above.



#6 when using an engine crane (2 tonne capacity) what on earth do are you supposed to use to connect that massive hook and chain from the crane to the block? ive seen people use seat belts, other chains.. but whats the Reccomended safest way?


An engine leveler is probably easiest. I attached bolts to the rear of the head on the passenger side, and the front of the head on the driver's side. You'll see where the spots are - there should be loops there to do it easily. Don't skimp here - you'll be sorry if you drop the engine on your car, or worse, you.

#7 how many tranny bell housing bolts are there? (lol)



Not less than 8. 4 on the bottom connecting the bottom of the pan to the trans, and then 4 that go from engine to trans - 2 at the bottom of the block and two at the top. You'll see them when you've got the engine out.



#8 the plan is to leave the tranny in place, so do i drop the front shaft from the engine side? and whats the best way to drop it? undo the circlips, and bolts that go through the U-joints?


That is the hard way to do it.

Just drain the trans, unbolt the transmission crossmember and rear driveshaft, and the shfiter - and pull the whole shebang out together. It's easier.


#9 do i need to bleed the clutch system or can i just carefully unbolt the slave from the fork?

Just unbolt the slave and ziptie it to the hardlines under the car. Make sure nobody pushes the clutch pedal until the system is reassembled and you shouldn't have problems.


#10 i heard there was something special you need to do to release the fork and its done by moving the rubber boot from the fork and reaching inside and un-doing something in there.. whats the deal with this?


If you've got a pull type clutch, yes. If you have a push type, no. Also, deal with this after you have the engine/trans out, it'll be easier. I've never taken apart a GTR pull type clutch so I'm not sure how it works, but I bet there's a video on youtube somewhere...



i think thats it for now, im sure there'll be more question as time goes on but id appreciate input on this..

thanks very much!
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Old 01-09-2010   #5
natetheguy
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Default Re: about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!


here's a video to explain #10 if you have a pull type

I have a gtr manufactured in feb, of 1993 and I had to do this to mine.
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Old 01-09-2010   #6
archaeic_bloke
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Default Re: about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!

mine is a october 91 car.. so mine will be a push type right?


second thing, how much room does it take to pull the motor with the tranny.. like how high up do you have to raise the crane.. cause im going to be limited by the ceiling height of my garage.. its probably about 7 feet tall only. thats why i was leaning towards pulling the motor without the tranny.....

thoughts?
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Old 01-09-2010   #7
Rapier46
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Default Re: about pulling the RB26... very specific inquiries!

It doesnt take much more. not sure of exact height. if all else fails, remove the tranny first, then pull the engine. thats how i have done it before and its extremely easy. i pulled the tranny out by myself. 30 minutes from a drivable car to transmission out. But you should be fine if you try to get the hoist as close to the engien as possible. if theres like 3 feet of chain and strap between the engine and crane, it wont work. keep it short. and you should have no problem at all pulling the tranny out with the motor.

and yes you have push type. Transmission will slide off once bolts are off.
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