Suspension Components Required?

[mcfly]

When a person locks out hicas and gets adjustable front and rear control arms what other parts would want to be considered at the same time?

I need Fuca's and Ruca's for sure to correct my camber just want to make sure I do it all the first time properly, don't want another 1300 worth of tires going out the windows.

[Skym]

Aluminium subframe collars to take movement out of rear subframe that could affect alignment if subframe twist's during launching or cornering. Also I think you can adjust rear subframe for more or less traction, depending on where you put the collars. Whiteline had a how to PDF on their website that shows where to put their pineapple bushes / collars for more traction (racetrack, dragracing) or less traction (drifting). Only downside I know of with aluminium collars is more NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness).

Front and rear strut braces to keep towers straightish, alignment correct, increase rigidity of chassis (some like the HKS Kansai, Carbring, Nismo front strut brace on GTR). Adjustable swaybars to reduce body roll, reduce outer tyre wear and adjust under, oversteer.

[GRIP]

What type of lock out are you going to use? I would consider some new tie rods on top of what Skym suggested, also what PS pump are you going to use?

for a project like yours, I would be looking for a non hicas subframe and build it up with solid bushings, LSD, diff cooler ect...

[mcfly]

I already have a essential lock bar installed and currently no ps, just a looped rack. I will be changing this for either a dry sump driven pump or electrical sometime in the near future.

The non hicas subframe is out of the question as they are not where near as strong.
Differentials are all ready done in the front and rear and I have no need for a diff cooler as I will not be on the track in that regard.

[mcfly]

how about adjustable tension rods? Required when doing control arms?

[Zacho]

Rear traction arms are a good buy if you ask me. You can almost completely eliminate bump steer with rear toe arms and rear traction rods.

I'd consider fronts if your current ones have pooched bushings. I've considered them but the gains of adjusting them aren't too advantageous for me.

[Skym]

Front left tension rod (passenger side when sitting in drivers seat) sits back further than right side tension rod on a R32 Skyline. I've talked to suspension / alignment experts about this and what I can understand from what they have said, pulling left side back more with tension rod helps when turning left as you turn left more than right with right hand drive car. I think alignment specialist adjust's the front subframe, etc a bit to dial it out and make sure car doesn't pull left.

So in my opinion adjustable front tension rods are worth it to dial that pulling to left problem out. I was looking into this problem ages ago, but decided I didn't want the increased NVH from the solid joint's on adjustable tension rods.

[rb-racer]

Solid subframe bushings - if you cant stomach the ride + extra noise
solid differential bushings - again if you can take extra noise
front upper control arms add noise too
rear upper control arms add more noise as well

I cannot comment on the need for traction and tension rods as i have not gone that far with my car yet. Maybe someone here can school us on the use of tension + traction rods

[Super_Dude]

Tension rods are for adjusting front castor. More castor is nice but it puts a lot more stress on the front upper control arm. With lots of castor adjustable "ams" style upper control arms won't as long. You can run factory tension rods and it will not hurt performance.

Traction rods are a very good idea with adjustable rear upper control arms. Without them it's easy to see how they will bind and cause bumpsteer when you shorten the rear upper and leave the traction rod stock length.

Hope that helps

[mcfly]

Well I got the tension rods for the hell of it. Figured if I was going adjustable I may as well get everything.

Now I need to find some traction rods I like.

[Funnygas]

one thing to note there damien.
when you use the upper control arms to remove camber.. it will push the wheel out.
i went from tucking with 5mm clearance on barely rolled fenders to 10mm poke on my 17x8 +22 wheels.
imo adjustable LCA would be optimal.

[mcfly]

Already took that into consideration, the front I'm looking at fiberglass fenders and the rear I can remove the spacers if need be

[Funnygas]

ohhhh... you have spacers.. nvm then

[mcfly]

Who did your alignment and what did it cost

[Funnygas]

$117 taxes in at kal tire on notre dame.

[mcfly]

they did front and rear upper adjustable arms for you?
i get good deals at kal so that's a plus, did they screw your spacers though?

[Funnygas]

they set the alignment, and adjusted camber via RUCAs to my request
it was Kal on the reserve that fucked up my spacers. never had a problem with kal up on notre dame

[mcfly]

Ok great. I need eveyones thoughts on rear traction rods now. Having never looked into them what brands are good.

Obviously the same as s13's?

[driftmonger]

Cusco or Ikea Formula are my top pics for any of that stuff. I have Ikea Formula now.

[mcfly]

really, did you have to assemble them yourself?

[Super_Dude]

Spl or stillen would be my choice.

Ikeya formula stuff is awesome but a little overpriced.

I try to stay with parts from english speaking countries. The only suspension part that you really need japanese made is the front lower control arm. No where else seems to have front lower control arms.