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View Full Version : Gonna see what's up....


Rapier46
01-29-2010, 09:47 PM
Well I removed my old engine because it started to knock. I'm gonna pull off my oil pan tonight. Someone has done this before. What's it like to get at the crank shaft and rod bearing with only the oil pan off?

And will this knocking bearing be easy to find. I'll probably puttin in new rod bolts and bearings. Then this motor should be good to run again.

And. This may be a stupid question buy is t same to turn the engine upside down? Engine oil drained

Rapier46
01-29-2010, 09:48 PM
Yeah I'm doing it on Friday night. So? mY gf went to bed and I have nothing to do. Fuck!

mcfly
01-29-2010, 11:45 PM
Once the pan it off you will have two windage trays bolted to the block girdle.

undo the 12 bolts on there and you will have access to the main bolts. Remove those in the correct sequence, typically outside to inside in two steps.

You will then have main bearings in the girdle and can undo rod bolts properly to remove the crank and see all bearings.

Remember what cylinder everything came from. Mark bags for main bearings for future reference and mark rod caps/ studs/ bearings as well. Mark everything.

Rapier46
01-30-2010, 01:31 AM
ALRIGHT. I HAVE SOME DAMAGE HERE BOYS.

pics tomorrow. or today actually.

Alright...

video of knocky rod...

YouTube- R32 RB26DETT Cylinder 6 Knock identification

rb-racer
01-30-2010, 08:58 AM
Any Pictures of the rod/ends as well as bearings? That is quite the wobble wow.

Also, have you taken the back cover off of your oil pump to see if there are any issues inside?

anthony
01-30-2010, 09:37 AM
oh well, its a good excuse if you needed one? to rebuild bigger better stronger

Kras
01-30-2010, 09:54 AM
good ole number 6 eh.

I'd at least upgrade the pistons while you are in there

I'm a little jealous you have a spare 26 to play around with haha.

Rapier46
01-30-2010, 10:51 AM
Haha yeah, it's my test motor.


And I got quite a few pics guys. Piston 5 bearing does NOT fit snugly in the cap. It's all Shrunken. I got pics. And I my crankshaft is toast as of now, the bearing on 6 is melted and ground in to it. WTF. So i can either get it fixed or get allans r34 crank.... Withcp pistons.... Hmmm :)

Kras
01-30-2010, 11:24 AM
Hey man it's all about what you're willing to spend lol.

Build up this motor to the tits and then swap it for when your current 26 dies?

anthony
01-30-2010, 11:42 AM
i had something like that happen on a 351 windsor, the bearing went and ground the crank down where i could see that the bearing had ground a step into the crank the width of the bearing where it sat

Rapier46
01-30-2010, 12:20 PM
Hey man it's all about what you're willing to spend lol.

Build up this motor to the tits and then swap it for when your current 26 dies?



That was originally the plan. Spot on. Maybe.... I'm fine with botom end, but top end, I've never really touched it so I'm nervous about touching it. But I don't wanna wait for my new one to die.

DrMango
01-30-2010, 01:37 PM
Thats some pretty horrible play there lol. Are you hoping to build this engine for huge power? New crank, pistons, bearings and the rod bolts should pretty much get you setup
You bought that engine with the understanding that it was already damaged?

Kyle

GRIP
01-30-2010, 03:25 PM
looks like its time for a new crank, its good not to much other damage was caused there, looks like #6 rod was hangin on for dear life

mcfly
01-30-2010, 03:30 PM
Wingnut made 5xx whp on a stock head, cams included(as those are the restriction from factory).

If you build the block the head is the easy part.

Kras
01-30-2010, 04:48 PM
What hp levels do you guys figure stock rods are safe until? (with upgraded bolts)

Allan74
01-30-2010, 05:51 PM
What hp levels do you guys figure stock rods are safe until? (with upgraded bolts)

There have been posts from guys running 600 WHP with ARP Bolts in OEM Rods as long as proper prep/inspection is done during the machining process.

Rapier46
01-30-2010, 06:23 PM
see thats one thinng...i ahve no idea how to insppect these things. i can do it i have a micrometer but still.

I am would like to build this engine for good hp since i do have it all apart. nothing crazy. but have it made strong to handle anything i would put through it.

or buy oem or slightly stronger but still cheaper parts, and sell it as a good running engine. and do the upgrading to my current one.


and DRMango
I did no buy that engine. that engine came in my car. it had been swapped it, and 600km after it started to knock. so i took it out and put in a different rb26. now i dont know whhat i am to do..

Allan74
01-31-2010, 01:06 AM
that engine came in my car. it had been swapped it, and 600km after it started to knock...
It started to knock after you spun it to 10,000 RPM. I'm certain it had NOTHING to do with the 600km.

You can't brag about driving the shit out of it in 1 thread, then call shinanigans on the seller in another thread.

Rapier46
01-31-2010, 01:34 AM
1. Why did it rev that high?

2. If the engine cant handle the ECU, then it is the sellers fault. i was told it was stock everything. stock ecu has rev limiter. the one i got, did not.

Sellers fault. fuck 4Xtoys

Allan74
01-31-2010, 01:36 AM
What ECU do you have in it ?

Rapier46
01-31-2010, 01:38 AM
i guess it was stock, but chipped. no revlimiter, no limiters. chip was permanantly glued in


i got it assessed at autodream all they said was the timing was WAYYYYYY advanced and unsafe for our gas. to not use it. too late, already had knock. and it had no speed limiter, or fuel cut or any bullshit

Skym
01-31-2010, 01:48 AM
Stock bearings can suffer from cavitation problems (melts the surface of bearing). That sounds like what happened, maybe due to oilstarvation when it was reved or high oiltemps???

What hp levels do you guys figure stock rods are safe until? (with upgraded bolts)

Around 705hp at engine on a stock R34 N1 engine with HKS 25/30 turbo's. As far as I know, in N1 engines they check and use 6x good stock conrods. I assume they crack test (xray, etc), etc to find a good conrods that don't have flaws.

natetheguy
01-31-2010, 01:51 AM
i can vouch for jamie. 4xtoys did a worse job than richard simmons could do. they ripped jamie hard....

Rapier46
01-31-2010, 01:53 AM
vouch me hard

http://shitwehate.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/simmons.jpg

did you ever notice hes always waring workout stuff, but isnt even in good shape?

j-ran
01-31-2010, 02:04 AM
I think there is a difference between what is a safe level of hp for rods vs "I heard this guy made xxx hp on stock rods"

It would be nice to know if a guy drove for thousands of kilometers with the setup, or if he made 4 dyno pulls.

Skym
01-31-2010, 02:31 AM
It was on a dyno, but he tested it on road with full weight of car (I assume short burst's).

They say around 600hp at engine is the limit during endurance race for N1 engine. Max for reliable engine is 500hp at engine during endurance race for N1 engine and is what they ran.

500hp / 6 cylinders = 83.3hp per cylinder

Cast pistons are good for 100hp per cylinder, so 600hp total. I gather that was the limiting factor.

Conrods are about inertial load, keeping revs lower for peak hp which reduces inertial load on bottomend.