Dry Sump Setup Parts

[mcfly]

Alright! I would like to make a list of the required pieces to plumb a dry sump:p

Starting off;

RB oil filter stud - direct to block
Nissan Part Number 15213-21001


This is from the L series engines - L16-L28

3/4-16 thread

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/5699/rb26stud.jpg

[archaeic_bloke]

well my trust grex kit has some -AN fittings on it, it wouldnt be too hard to fit an adaptor if your set on the -12? i think the grexy kit is in/out a -8 no? i could check once i get home,

[mcfly]

Has to be -12, i know there is one out there I just cant remember where. Someone here told me about it anyways.

I don't require oil cooler provisions on it either. just single port if possible.

[mcfly]

scavenge screens for sump
http://www.drysump.com/screenfit.htm
Armstrong Race Engineering Inc
2890 Lopes Ln
Loomis, CA 95650
(916) 652-5282
(916) 652-6041 Fax

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/460/screensjpg.jpg

[Skym]

Interesting.

I know that photo with fitting on block, was on a high hp RB26 S14. That fitting was meant to work with this Mocal sandwich plate that went to Setrab oilcooler core -

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/2972/Mocal_Sandwich_Plate

Or could use a Permacool take off plate if you just want fittings or remote mount oilfilter (I think has multiple fittings to use on sandwich plate on block side) -

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/Adapters_and_Other_Oil_System_Components

[mcfly]

lots of filter block off plates, I need 3/4-16 to -12an though. This is unfortunately not an easy task. I sent off some emails on a billet piece I found to confirm it will work.

The fitting in the block is a nissan part number :p a lot of nissans ran this way from factory.

[mcfly]

Time to revisit. Moroso will not return my emails requesting other pictures so i will use a generic one and guess it will fit for me.

Moroso p/n 23820

All engines with 2 1/2" ID x 2 7/8" OD Sealing Area and 3/4"- 16 UNF Block Thread
* Billet Aluminum Block-Off Plate designed for Dry Sump or External Oil Pump System.
* Threads on in place of existing oil filter
* Includes internal -12AN Fitting for pressure feed lines
* One piece construction, blue anodized

http://static.atechmotorsports.com/global/images/prod/large/mor-23820_w.jpg

Next up will be the oil pan

[christ.deyoung]

Any idea what the pulley ratio should be?
And would the stock oil pickup screen be sufficient to filter the pump suction?
Reason I'm asking is because I'm currently working on my external oil pump conversion...and perhaps dry sumping down the road at some point.

[mcfly]

it depends on the pump really.

Typically about half crank speed works but a few pumps I ran across said no more then 4500 rpm

[christ.deyoung]

Well that works, as I'm gonna spin er to 9! (with a Moroso 22600)

I was also kind of thinking that we could be dry sumping these things without any sump modifications at all, simply by using the stock oil pickup for scavenging. Would you foresee any problems with this approach?

[WizardBlack]

Well that works, as I'm gonna spin er to 9! (with a Moroso 22600)

I was also kind of thinking that we could be dry sumping these things without any sump modifications at all, simply by using the stock oil pickup for scavenging. Would you foresee any problems with this approach?

I don't know why you would spend all the money on the pump, drive system, tank, lines, etc. and then not simply trim the pan down and install multiple pickups. It will help get the oil out faster without letting it get whipped up by the crank as much. A scavenge stage pulling off the head might not be a bad idea, either. I guess it depends on how many stages you are paying for on the dry sump pump.
Regarding drive speed, I heard the standard rule of thumb was half of engine speed.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb26-Drysump-external-Oil-t293736.html
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Dry-Sump-Setup-Pics-t137799.html
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb26-Dry-Sump-Kit-t293009.html&p=4931341#entry4931341

[christ.deyoung]

Yeah, that's true.
Why does the filter block off plate have to have a -12AN fitting? Aren't a lot of oil filter relocation kits -10?
And why can't an oil filter relocation kit suffice for the blocking plate? Just remove the line where the adapter plate on the block sends the unfiltered oil, plug the hole, and feed the pressure stage into the line you disconnected.

[WizardBlack]

Yeah, that's true.
Why does the filter block off plate have to have a -12AN fitting? Aren't a lot of oil filter relocation kits -10?
And why can't an oil filter relocation kit suffice for the blocking plate? Just remove the line where the adapter plate on the block sends the unfiltered oil, plug the hole, and feed the pressure stage into the line you disconnected.

I don't see why it would not work, but it ultimately about what you are after. Why won't the stock pump work? Most dry sump systems use -12 AN AFAIK, so it'd be a bit of a restriction to use a -10 line to the block. Those adapter pieces have a lot of sharp turns and narrow spots to accommodate the oil filter layout (oil enters throughout the entire radius with small holes and leaves as a single large port). The last thing you'd want to do is dry to patch the holes and end up with leaks which would lead to poor scavenging.
Dry sump systems leave a lot of massive AN lines snaking around your oil pan, etc. if you do a substantial kit. Heck, I have a Barnes 4 stage and it's massive. I am using my RB in an S30 and I am not even sure if I can fit it in there even though I don't have P/S or A/C; just water and alternator.
If it were me (and it will be when I get to that point), I'd spring for the -12 adapter.

[Coolwhip]

We sell the harmonic balancers and the dry sump adapters for all the RB's. Will soon have the pump brackets and RWD dry sump pans available shortly.

[philvia]

im currently working on my setup as well
i got the ross pulley and drive from raw brokerage too

were working on my pan, ill get pics of the build as it unfolds and the pan (rwd)
and im pretty sure im scavenging the head as well since i have a 5 stage pump
ill get picks of my parts and setup when i get a chance

[Coolwhip]

here is the pump mount we're working on, with the Ross Tuffbond balancer...

http://i36.tinypic.com/16lwd53.jpg

[christ.deyoung]

Does anyone have lying around, a close nipple for the oil filter direct to block stud? I want the measurements of the shank length, so that I can have one made up, rather than wait for one to come in. I don't exactly have time to wait for one to come from Japan or something foolish, and I don't really know easy it would be to install that with the motor in place.

Edit: Apparently this isn't a special order part from Japan, as Nissan has several of these stocked in Toronto, so one has been ordered!

[christ.deyoung]

Should teflon tape or any kind of pipe dope be used for the threads between the stud and the block?

[Moops]

Abit old, but you can use the ptfe pipe thread sealant around the threads.

[Moops]

I ended up machining a stainless fitting that goes from M18 x 1.5 to -10 for our dry sump system on our race car. Similiar to what you guys were talking about.

428

[rb-racer]

you threaded that right into the block?

[Moops]

Correct. Right into the main supply hole that would usually have a male/male fitting for your oil filter to screw onto.

[mcfly]

did you cover the rest of the hole that the oil filter normally covers?

[Moops]

Pulled the bypass spring and ball out and tapped it and grubscrewed it. The pick up supply hole was left open. We cut off the top part of the oil pump housing that connects to that gallery and welded it up and just used an empty pump body for the front main seal. No gears or backing plate inside.

The whole area inside is exposed, not covered with a plate like the moroso item shown. But the same thing is achieved. However it depends what motor you are doing it too. I believe rb25 and rb26's dont have the bypass inside utilised (it is bunged off) as they are built into the oil filter/heat exchanger housing that bolts over that part. Rb30's have the bypass there as they dont have the filter/heat exchanger housing bolted ontop.

Hopefully that makes sense?