Spark Plugs & Coilpacks info

[inhumane]

First, Spark plugs:

I have never bought spark plugs for my car so i have absolutely no experience with quality vs. price

i know of the brands but what are some that guys have been pleased with?

Second, Coilpacks:

Same as above, ive never bought any so what are your guys experiences?

please state brand, price and maybe where you got them?

Thanks guys,

Andrew

[j-ran]

This is my spark setup in my rb20

Plugs: NGK BCPR7ES gapped ti 0.8 mm
Copper plugs work well, but i replace them fairly often. You can get them from pretty well any auto part store. I had some greddy iridium plugs as well, but I like the coppers better. Price is usually 2-3 dollars per plug.

Coils: Yellowjackets from australia, got them from gtrc group buy. I notice smoothness at higher rpm that i didn't have before. On any build I think the 20 year old coil-packs that cause so many threads on forums should be replaced... these ones i got for about 400 dollars and are worth every penny. They are a cheaper alternative to splitfires, and I believe they still don't have a coil available for the series 2 rb25.

[inhumane]

i think they recently got a series 2 coilpack setup available for yellow jackets, its like 30 bucks more though

[Zacho]

Plugs

I used to run BKR7E (pre gapped to .8) but ran into longevity issues with them. They worked great in the first 5000 though.

My car was running like garbage and I was in a small town, but the parts store had some 2JZGTE plugs from champion which I bought and gapped down to .8 in the parking lot and they have actually worked fantastic for me so far.

Coils

I've only used OEM, and that is what I plan to stick with. I've found a dealer who carries my OEM coils for about 65 USD/each.

[inhumane]

its weird theyre more, thanks for the input man

[inhumane]

im probably just gonna run OEM for now until i can afford some good coils

but spark plugs are a must for me asap :D

thank ya

[Zacho]

I believe they are because series 2 RB25's have the ignitor within the coils. S1's have the ignitor on the coil cover.

[inhumane]

i did not know that, good to know! thats probably why then

[mcfly]

OEM coils with something like the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark running at 20volts.
adjusting coil dwell to suit.

Oem coils have been proven on 1100whp rb's they just have to be new to work. People rave about splitfires but oem is better in back to back testing. If you shop around as well they are no more expensive then splitfires and maybe marginally more then the china brand red/yellow coils that have shown up on the market this past year.

For stock boost or a bit more BKR7E plugs are what i run and they are nice and easy. V grooved copper "race" plug gapped to .8mm out of box.

[Allan74]

I run OEM Coils, which will have a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark behind them soon. Plugs ? BKR7E, just like everyone else.

[TougeJunkie]

BKR7E and OEM coils for me too

What plug and gap would you guys recommend for 30-35 PSI

BKR6E ? would one step be enough?

[Allan74]

Wrong way.....6 is OEM heat range. You want 8's. Gap .8 to start with.

[Skym]

Interesting.

Factory is PFR6A-11 (11=1.1mm gap) for RB26. That's with 311hp that the R32 RB26 engine is said to produce at factory.

Look on NGK website for spark plug info :-

Heat ranges -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml

I think it was every 75-100hp, go up one heat range. Look at spark plug tips to determine correct heat range. Fouled tips = too cold of a heat range. Melted tips = too hot of heat range. If engine is run richer or leaner, change sparkplug heat range to suit.

How to read a spark plug -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp?mode=nml

Key to understanding what NGK part numbers mean -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/tech/partnumberkey.pdf

[mcfly]

Interesting.

Factory is PFR6A-11 (11=1.1mm gap) for RB26. That's with 311hp that the R32 RB26 engine is said to produce at factory.


*clears throat* 276 hp

BKR7E and OEM coils for me too

What plug and gap would you guys recommend for 30-35 PSI

BKR6E ? would one step be enough?

Heat range 9 surface gap plugs

[DrMango]

Man I've been under the myth that the original OEM plugs were iridiums so stick with them. I've always bought the iridiums and liked them other than the fact that they don't last long.
I'm going to run the copper BKR7E this season.

I'm sticking with the OEM coil packs for sure. I haven't bought into the hype and the OEMs are damn good.
Where is the best deals people have seen on new OEMs?

Kyle

[Skym]

*clears throat* 276 hp

The true hp is said to be around 311hp for stock R32GTR.

It's like the R34 GTR produces 276hp, when it actually produces 330hp.

Stock R33 GTR is inbetween, something like 320hp.

There's dynochart on the internet somewhere showing the difference with R34GTR engine with factory claimed hp and actual hp. It has red, blue plots on black background. I think was on GTROC forum.

[Allan74]

Uh, Skym ? didn't you forget something ?

[rb-racer]

Heat range 9 surface gap plugs

What are those? And link to this ken belle thing or information?

[Allan74]

Rookies.....
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostaspark/boostaspark.htm

[Skym]

Interesting.

[Zacho]

Had a friend run a boost-a-spark on his supra. I was amazed to see/hear/feel the difference when it was at a low value, and at a higher value.

[DrMango]

I never heard of it before this either. Does it burn out coilpacks or have any bad effects in general?

Kyle

[mcfly]

What are those? And link to this ken belle thing or information?

I have preached the kenne-bell unit for a while. It works awesome.

The surface gaps plugs are neat bu the only downfall is they have a 1.2 mm gap so you need a serious coil to fire them.

[Allan74]

I never heard of it before this either. Does it burn out coilpacks or have any bad effects in general?
Kyle

I would never use it on Aftermarket Coil Packs.

I am going to run mine on OEM Coil Packs (brand new), as I have been convinced that although OEM's may lack a bit of power up high, they are all around over-engineered to withstand more punishment and the KB BAS should give them the kick in the ass they need to be the ultimate RB26 Ignition System up higher in the power band.

Another good thing about the KB BAS is the fact that it is not an 'always on' system. Well, it is 'always on' but not always delivering the 14-20 variable Volts to the Coilpacks. It will only fire up to your desired Voltage level under whatever Boost Level you set within the system. It comes with a Boost Switch that you can adjust to suit your performance.

I will have mine set to activate the 17-18V bump at anything over .5 BAR......although others may be different......and they can be with this setup.

[Allan74]

I should add another quick tid-bit about Kenne Bell while other people are finally listening.

Thanks to Mcfly, I purchased the Kenne Bell stuff and from the research I have done before and after, I am pretty satisfied with the stuff.

The 2 main products that we Skyline users can utilize are very similar. 1 is an 'Ignition Booster' (Boost-A-Spark) and the other is a 'Fuel Pump Booster' (Boost-A-Pump).

They both work exactly the same.....boost switches. They also supply a steady Voltage to the Pump and Coils regardless of your Car's Voltage levels and can operate with as little as 10V, spitting out a nice rock solid (13.5 or 14.4V....I can't recall off hand) when the units are simply 'idling' off boost (line conditioning of sorts). Steady Voltage is a HUGE benefit. The increase in Voltage under Boost is like Icing on the cake.

Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump: (part# KB89069)
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm

Kenne Bell Boost-A-Spark: (part# KB89070)
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostaspark/boostaspark.htm

I bought both units direct from Kenne Bell and paid:
- BAP = $249.00 USD
- BAS = $229.00 USD
- Shiping to Calgary = $25.89 (FedEx Express, 3 Day, No Duty, Brokerage etc.)
------------------------------
Total = $503.89 USD Total, everything included.

[DrMango]

So even if you don't turn it up your atleast getting a better more consistant supply of voltage from your fuel pump? Is there any danger to driving around with the pump booster on quite often, like burning out the pump prematurely?
Good info and I'll likely be running the Spark boost this season. Do you know of the best price on OEM packs new?

Kyle

[Rapier46]

splitfire coilpacks or bust. they're great. never misfire, strong spark it always there. as for plugs, i dunno what to get.

[mcfly]

DO NOT USE the Splitfire coils. You boys up in Canada seem to love those things. They are the worst money you can spend on your car.
I very seldom listen to anyone without question on the internet but this is one person I won't question.

Stock ignition system(bone stock minus plugs) has gone 742whp at 26 psi. I saw that first hand anyways.

[DrMango]

Indeed. I've heard horror stories about the Spitfires and them melting plugs etc
The guys at XS sure know how to build a crazy long lasting RB

Kyle

[j-ran]

if eric hsu said that, it is true.

Has anybody else ripped out that variable voltage thing from their trunk? Not sure if it is in gtr or just gts-t.

running an electric motor at other than its rated voltage can be bad news, low or high (depends on winding insulation and other factors).

[inhumane]

this is all great info!!!!

[Zacho]

Do you know of the best price on OEM packs new?

Kyle

I don't know if this is the best price new, but enjukuracing.com has them for about 70-75$ us/each.

I am curious if someone can answer for me though, what makes the splitfire coils so bad? I do not plan on buying them nor do I ever but just curious.

[DrMango]

if eric hsu said that, it is true.

Has anybody else ripped out that variable voltage thing from their trunk? Not sure if it is in gtr or just gts-t.

running an electric motor at other than its rated voltage can be bad news, low or high (depends on winding insulation and other factors).

This is what I previously understood but I could be wrong..
The coil booster does sound interesting though

Kyle

[Allan74]

1,000 HP Twin Turbo and Supercharged Corvettes can't be wrong. Slightly over-volting a pump is not as bad as you may think. Do research on it and it's current SUCCESSFUL APPLICATIONS before you pass judgement after only learning about it today.

[DrMango]

1,000 HP Twin Turbo and Supercharged Corvettes can't be wrong. Slightly over-volting a pump is not as bad as you may think. Do research on it and it's current SUCCESSFUL APPLICATIONS before you pass judgement after only learning about it today.

For sure but to be honest, I likely would have never used it either way. Its not applicable to my situation. I will reserve my comments to my thoughts

Kyle

[Allan74]

For sure but to be honest, I likely would have never used it either way. Its not applicable to my situation. I will reserve my comments to my thoughts

Kyle

You don't have to reserve anything - that's the great thing about a public forum.

I will however say, 'Gut Feeling' is not reason enough to post negatively about something to lead others a stray, who may read this later on down the road ;)

[DrMango]

Edited

[Skym]

Interesting.

From what I understand and can remember, brush style stock fuelpumps running at 100% all the time fail earlier due to overheating (also heats the fuel travelling through fuelpump) and draws alot of voltage from alternator. Manufacturers put a voltage regulator on wiring to fuelpump to reduce load on alternator at idle, increase brush type fuelpump lifespan (last 100,000km before they need to be replaced), doesn't heat up fuel travelling through fuelpump.

The Kenne Bell boost a pump works like a voltage regulator (could replace stock voltage regulator for fuelpump on GTR), so provides less voltage at idle to fuelpump and can adjust where you want the fuelpump to run at 100% or full voltage after idle / during acceleration (factory voltage regulator is not adjustable). I gather the added benefit, is it maintains the higher voltage to fuelpump, so get constant flow of fuel when accelerating.

Splitfires can run a bit more dwell vs stock coilpacks to increase spark, so some tuners do and the result is Splitfires fail earlier than they should. I would think that's where the Splitfire failure stories come from. Can do the same with stock coilpacks. It's another reason why I run a stock ECU, as dwell is setup for longevity of coilpacks by factory.

Factory ignition system benefits from a boost from a HKS ignition amplifier or Kenne Belle Boost a spark, as can run more dwell to increase spark (draws more voltage for longer period of time than factory ignition module) which increases hp, response.

[mcfly]

the hks ignition amp is a cdi unit, not anywhere near as powerful as a boost a spark which increases static voltage into the coil. You will never yield the same results with a capacitor vs voltage increase.

[rb-racer]

if splitfires need more dwell time out of the box doesn't that make them an inferior product to oems. I'm interested in knowing the duty cycle at 8000 rpm on a stock setup.

[Skym]

Very interesting.

Mcfly, oh, okay, I assumed they were the same type of CDI device.

rb-racer, you can run more dwell with Splitfires and they can take it. That's supposedly the advantage over stock coilpacks. But the result is shorter lifespan of Splitfire coilpacks.

I assume you mean coilpack duty cycle on R32 GTR ECU??

If so, for duty cycle of stock coilpacks at 8000rpm = 4.95 ms. Table goes up to around 12000rpm.

[rb-racer]

what is the max dwell time a stock coil can take?

[Skym]

Highest Dwell time would be roughly 100% of 7 volts. Table max is 16 volts, but never uses 100% of 16 volts.

[89gtr]

the boost a spark is $229 plus shipping,and you get everything to hook it up to your car.
ztune sells new oem coils for $550
and the split fires for $435

also a new oem coil harness from ztune is $130,which is a good idea.

[inhumane]

yea i was browsing their site and saw the splitfires for 435

hopefully its my spark plugs causing the misfire