I've just put myself at a fork in the road.....

[Allan74]

...and it's time to start making decisions again.

I just ordered ARP 3.5 Rod Fasteners for my Turbo-Tuff Rods, making them virtually indestructable - literally.

For those unfamiliar with this grade:

ARP® 3.5 (AMS5844)
While similar to Inconel 718, these super-alloys are found in many jet engines and aerospace applications where heat and stress attack the life of critical components. The high cobalt content of this alloy, while expensive delivers a material with superior fatigue characteristics and a tensile strength in the 270,000 psi range. The immunity to hydrogen embrittlement and corrosion of these materials a significant design consideration. These materials are primarily used in connecting rods where extremely high loads, high RPM, and endurance are important factors, such as: Formula 1, Winston Cup, and CART applications.

Reference:
ARP 8740 Tensile Strength = 190,000 PSI
ARP2000 Tensile Strength = 210,000 PSI
ARP L19 Tensile Strength = 230,000 PSI
ARP 625+ Tensile Strength = 260,000 PSI
ARP 3.5 Tensile Strength = 270,000 PSI
AerMet100 Tensile Strength = 280,000 PSI


I have always maintained that my standard block should reveal itself to be my weakpoint, if I were to ever 'push' things and I am now thinking......

I am really leaning towards the purchase of Billet Main Cap/Block Strengthening setup. Unfortunately, a GT/RRR block is out of my price range and I am not about to waste money on an N1.

There are currently 2 kits available. 1 from Aus and 1 from NZ.

What do you guys think about them ?

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5401/ripsbillitmainscapkit00.jpg

[Allan74]

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/112882-rips-cnc-billet-mains-kit-suit-rb25-rb26-rb30.html

[bobbo]

sexual... just sexual.
Obviously you're planning on building a BEAST!

[DrMango]

I have no experience obviously but damn your motor is going to be like the superman of engines. RIPS is amazing stuff and they prove it with their big hp motors

Kyle

[mcfly]

Waste of money, 1000 wheel is attainable on a stock block reliably.
Also, a gt and rr block are the same thing as gt cars used rrr.

[Allan74]

sexual... just sexual.
Obviously you're planning on building a BEAST!

Not a Beast. Just something where I recognize the limits and don't leave myself wishing for a few more hundred RPM at the end of the day.

In for a penny, in for a pound. At this point does it really matter anymore ?.....lol

[Allan74]

Also, a gt and rr block are the same thing as gt cars used rrr.

That fact I myself know, but there are others that refer to them as 1 or the other.

It's actually RPM that most interests me now and I think I should have worded my original post a little differently.....

It's probably a Full Counter Crankshaft that I should be looking for perhaps.....not a stronger block....or both.

I'm fine with a ceiling of 1,000 HP.....but a safe 10,000 RPM would be nice.

[mcfly]

I say spend money on external oiling before billet mains, mains are not the issue with the rb. regardless of RPM.

[Allan74]

I say spend money on external oiling before billet mains, mains are not the issue with the rb. regardless of RPM.

Fair enough. I'm getting ahead of myself again without a proper foundation.

Dry Sump, or atleast External Wet should be priority#1.

[mcfly]

yes, lets 4 stage it together
group buy brackets and use a keith cowie inspired pan

The oiling system is the issue and the top two inches of the block which can only be solved with a full filled block

[Allan74]

yes, lets 4 stage it together
group buy brackets and use a keith cowie inspired pan


Jesus......

Poeple already accuse me of being your Cronie (and I'm 10yrs older than you !). How would it look if I followed you again ?.......lol

[TougeJunkie]

"In for a penny, in for a pound. At this point does it really matter anymore ?.....lol "

Man that cracked me up, I hear ya

You guys are going hardcore, so are these cars going to be streetable afterwards or will they be drag strip monsters ... it would be sweet to have some sub 8 second skylines in Canada

Im shooting for a super responsive 500-600 rwhp and light weight everything

[Allan74]

Mine is going to be a Street Car, first and foremost. 10sec Street Car ? definately. 9sec Street Car ? Possibly. 8sec ? not likely.

I would really like to Road Race my car eventually, or even Time Attack. 1/4 Mile is a given though.

[TougeJunkie]

Thats cool , I suppose a quick switch of a map and the boost controller and your in a more manageable set up for the street. Going to cage it?

[Allan74]

I'm considering it, but won't cut into the dash to do it.....so it will most likely cost me a little extra for someone who can actually bend and weld, to do it.

[Skym]

Interesting.

Coolant temperature (colder coolant or even cold water flowing through block and hot block), Harmonics (not balancing bottomend and lack of upgraded crank pully) are the main area's that cause stock RB block to crack.

Look at where it cracks -

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vhpEGyEVhes/RpbIrm-Ax0I/AAAAAAAAACM/FqRPvdxa1is/s1600-h/IMG_0359.JPG

Can sleeve the block (I think it can reduce heat transfer from cylinder to block) or coat the cylinders (like on VR38 R35GTR engine), which is another option where sleeves can't be fitted.

Also could use Moroso block filler -

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=22008

Metalcrete block filler -

http://www.dougherbert.com/automotivechemicalsblockfillers-c-320_343.html?osCsid=868be2540c9028e63b2d322d43f229 37

This link has options for cylinder coatings, valve coatings, coatings on underside of pistons, etc -

http://www.procoat.co.nz/coating_performance.htm

Bearings, piston rings, bearings inside turbo's, etc are where drysump would help.

[Allan74]

Interesting.

[Skym]

Very Interesting. :D

[archaeic_bloke]

just curious... what do you 2 (mcflizzle and allan) think of a oil accumulator or accusump?

im very much considering a uprated oil pump, and leaving the oil pan stock but just installing a large accusump, i like canton racing for these:

i know a lot of the Aussie guys run these with very reliable results, and in particular you can easily hook up a soelenoid to the ignition wire under the dash to activate once you turn the key to provide pre-oiling (which is often said to be the #1 cause of engine wear) tell me your thoughts,

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2415

[Allan74]

I really like the idea as 'icing on the cake', but by no means to be used as a primary solution to your oiling system. I may end up using one if I track my car alot, but will most like not plumb one in right away.

[mcfly]

for pre oiling sure, but when's the last time you heard of a built rb26 going from just ordinary bearing wear. Street cars get away just fine without pre oiling so why do we suddenly need it?

I am against them. In my eye's they are a bandaid for either poor oil control or insufficient oiling system in the first place.

A properly built sump would be where I invested my money. The Group A race cars used regular wet sumps with aftermarket bolt on pumps. Like the rips sump Allan is sitting on right now, that will out do an accumulator day after day and has been proven in all forms of racing apparently. Dry sump is the be all end all of oiling and what i would suggest for anyone but most people do not like the costs involved.